I am here, in Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam, ogling cats while they sip up floorboard fish sauce, watching motorbikes race inside a deafening buzz, and sensing the air while it settles into a thick slope around my neck. Oh, and a man with a giant stock of sunglasses pinned to cardboard walks the alley like a fierce determined albino eyed bunny looking for shade. Tomorrow night shall involve an overnight train trip to Danang where I hope to hear the night's railroad track rhythms. Much more then.